As for Milan has looked to the past, both in Paris you look at the future making it seem like the distant past. The men's fashion presented on the catwalk offering solutions autumn / winter 2012-13 is therefore trapped in the search for a different model of clothing, having to deal with a physicality, and a history , which leaves many loopholes: the pants have two legs, two arms jackets and fancy clothing area is not really the strong field of creativity of the common man .
So , while in Milan the shelter of fashion, who better than a sociologist should interpret the present time that stretches towards a future, was - at its best - a possible implementation of a beautiful past in a possible future (the processing of Prada , Dolce & Gabbana, Versace, Jil Sander, Armani have been joined by products aesthetically impeccable Zegna, Bottega Veneta and many others), in Paris, represented by the flight forward skirt (especially Jean Paul Gaultier and Riccardo Tisci Givenchy) is a representation of a recovery of a remote past as a symbol of the imagination of the future. The skirt, the one we know as the ultimate expression of female , is a real obsession for the designers who create the fashion male . Jean Paul Gaultier, for example, has made his own creative reason in its 30 years of thinking about fashion, but also other designers such as Dries Van Noten and Yohji Yamamoto, who not coincidentally present their collections in Paris, have repeatedly exercised on the subject. That is a topic that is proposed and repeats at almost every meeting with presentations of men's collections because, understand, there is a will to recover authenticity of membership of a chief who was historically part of the male wardrobe . In 2002 the Victoria and Albert Museum in London shows Men in Skirt , which was replicated the following year at the Metropolitan Museum in New York with the title Bravehearts: Men in Skirt , analyzed their migration from clothing skirt male to female not being able to identify, however, when and how occurred the final transition (from the exhibition, Andrew Bolton has produced a book with the title of Metropolitan, Bravehearts: Men in Skirt published by the London museum).As, then, the exhibition examines the genesis of the skirt in togas, in frock coat, in sarongs, kaftans and djellaba in every culture in the world were and still are men's clothing heritage, the designers of today who engage on ' argument seeking to demonstrate not only the practical but also aesthetic plausibility of a man in a skirt. The result is not to be taken as a game or be reduced to a phenomenon of cross-dressing (heterosexual men who dress as a woman, often with the complicity of their wives, on special occasions). If the walkways and if everything appears plausible in the clubs or the streets of the cities most advanced (London or Paris to New York and Shanghai, but much less in Milan and Rome almost nothing), some children of varying ages and sexual selection have courage to face the revolution of perception which causes a man wearing a skirt, the commercial reality - hence the mass distribution - men of the skirt is totally irrelevant on sales of the brands that offer it. And this, despite the heartfelt theoretical and historical justification of fashion designers. The exhibitions at the Victoria & Albert and many photos of the Met's modern times concerned with men in skirts pop icons such as David Bowie, Mick Jagger and Robbie Williams, and actors like Ewan McGregor (but often is Scottish kilts and dresses) and Samuel L. Jackson or even footballer David Beckham (but also in a kilt). Hence, the suspicion that the affirmation of the skirt is missing male, in fact, a male category above all suspicion of sexual , that is, a category that, rightly or wrongly, is generally considered to be immune to the homosexual choice. The speech may seem a low level. Indeed, very low. But it is absolutely realistic. Even so, the old notion that men's fashion is a cultural and commercial prerogative of gay culture is a false paradigm that can easily be removed as soon as you cross the threshold of a gay nightclub where, in most cases, a pair of jeans and T-shirts are the maximum application of the fashionable audience.
Michele Ciavarella - January 22, 2012
TAG: Zegna, Bottega Veneta, Givenchy, Dries Van Noten, Yohji Yamamoto, Victoria and Albert Museum, Metropolitan Museum, Andrew Bolton, cross-dressing, David Bowie, Mick Jagger, Robbie Williams, Ewan McGregor, Samuel L. Jackson, David Beckham, Men in Skirt, Bravehearts: Men in Skirt, Prada, Dolce & Gabbana, Versace, Jil Sander, Armani, Jean Paul Gaultier, Milan and Paris, fashion, men, obsession, skirt, Milan and Paris fashion man, obsession, skirt
FASHION All the best of Parisian catwalks and behind the scenes at the big names in Haute Couture. All the best of Parisian catwalks and behind the scenes at the big names in Haute Couture. Thursdays at 5.15 pm (Paris Time). All shows: FRANCE 24 INTERNATIO NAL NEWS www.france24.com 24 / 7 www.france24.com http www.france24.com Video Rating: 0 / 5
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