Friday, 20 January 2012

MAXIMILIAN GIORNETTI:

Maximilian Giornetti, Creative Director of Salvatore Ferragamo. Since 2010, under his direction are confl lines for men, women and accessories.

Giornetti Maximilian, Creative Director of Salvatore Ferragamo. Since 2010, under his direction are confl lines for men, women and accessories.

has a degree in Literature and Foreign Languages ​​from the University of Florence, studied Fashion Design at Polimoda in Florence, has collaborated with London's Fashion College and the Fashion Institute of Technology in New York and, since 2010, is Director Creative all the lines - clothing and accessories - by Salvatore Ferragamo.

Maximilian Giornetti , Scorpio 1971, born in Carrara, "a free city and individualistic" (he says, and I might add home of anti-Italian anarchist) academic titles out there, even those who are not usually found in the curricula of fashion designers. But there are also the medals of the results. Arrived at Ferragamo in 2000 , as head man of the line (which in 2004 became the Creative Director), Giornetti was appointed head of the Ready-to- Ladies Wear in January 2010 , after a period of creative turmoil that has seen alternating a couple of designers to lead the PAP woman. After a few months, the appointment comes to the creative direction of all lines brand Salvatore Ferragamo and from there the a unifying point of view that in a few seasons to get current results: a vision of beauty and of product, while keeping the specific differences (an image of man, a woman and accessories) moved the project and the creative concept into a coherent expression of all the Salvatore Ferragamo fashion .

Some might even say it happened by chance, but in the last two years the Florentine fashion house founded by Salvatore Ferragamo for over 80 years ago represents one of the major success stories of Made in Italy, so that the first nine months of 2011, terrible year for known reasons of economic and financial crisis, the company recorded a sales increase of 27.6% bringing the bill to 701.3 million euros (see article).

Meeting Maximilian Giornetti few hours after the presentation of the Pre-Fall 2012 collection in the Royal Room of the Central Station of Milan and compliments for having reopened, if only for a few hours, a Years of Italian masterpieces of 30 are required. But the compliments are also a pretext to get to the heart of the matter.
What is your vision of fashion?

"I believe that the fashion is an expression of personality and social change. I came to fashion (my dream ever) step by step, after graduation. The fashion was the culmination of many paths and many interests, like art and architecture, which I now return as a source of inspiration. I have to thank my academic career that has helped me to find ways to build a work plan. Perhaps that's why I think fashion should have a relationship with both the time that comes with both the social context in which they live. Today, for example, warn you that in society there is a need for retrieval of beauty with Ferragamo and I bring this recovery, which is not nostalgic, working hard on his extremism details because consumers arrive values. Fashion is also a game , though. And as this goes live with its rules because the center of this game is the person. I think it definitely finished the time when fashion was a unique expression of the will of the drawing. Today, fashion is no longer elitist but it is more democratic because they shared. "
How does this process of sharing and, therefore, to democratization?

"There are people who require fashionable lifestyle, others demand quality, for others it's a game. The designer must understand and engage with their consumers. "
so fashion becomes less conformist?

" Absolutely. And you see how different people from implementing the same dress. Today, fashion is almost like the scent that suits different skin types. Young, for example, are extremely attentive to the movements of fashion, but then bring everything under his own aesthetic vision of . I believe that today the relationship between fashion and the individual is interactive, and this is what today's fashion that fascinates me more. "
So how aesthetic , fashion is an art form?

"I would say less than an art form, despite the hard work that you do it. But more than art, fashion lives in the real world every day on people. "
After a period of" creative confusion ", he arrived at the Creative Direction of Ferragamo has produced a unification of the whole project in the fashion of the brand. What was your path?

"I arrived benefited from 12 years of work on men's collection. I already knew very well the fees because I've discovered Ferragamo constructing and deconstructing men's jackets. With this background, season after season, I try to put in place the blocks that define the overall picture. The definition of what are the Man and Woman Ferragamo is, of course, under my aesthetic sense, but my approach to fashion is made with respect to both codes of the brand - which has 80 years of history - and the people who work with me and our customers who wear fashion. In a creative process to the current set 80 years ago by the founder Salvatore Ferragamo, I shall respect the strong values, which I think are still valid and are of quality and comfort with aesthetics. "

having you work behind a company's growing visibility and sales. Ferragamo stores worldwide are about 500, you have even opened a one in Bogota and also in Lima. How do you feel in this situation? It can be a very narrow cage?

"I believe that my university studies I have given way to reach my goal. That is, do my work with love, dedication and professionalism. I also feed other things, I have other interests besides fashion and this frees me from the anxiety of the result and gives me the peace of mind to face the challenges of the next year with forecasts of performances continues to grow. "

the end of each show, she goes out on the catwalk and get to the location of the Ferragamo family, who greets her with a bow. From what the gesture is born

"Sometimes I call myself a man of another era. That gesture was born in a natural way. It is a gesture of respect for education and a family that has given me the chance to be the first Creative Director of his company. "
And if someone were to say that it is a gesture pimp?

"I'm very direct, I never tried protections and what I feel toward all the Ferragamo family is a truly respectful and authentic. Moreover, the work I do speaks for itself. And I'm happy to work for a brand that represents the finest Italian spirit, that of quality and also the quality of small gestures. "
Ferragamo as many actors and celebrities for special events and red carpets. Often the clothes and accessories are also reflected in the films Ferragamo, as recently in The Iron Lady starring Meryl Streep. The discomfort from the combination of the brand with a controversial figure such as Margaret Thatcher

"I just interpret it that Meryl Streep is ... Those accessories that you see in the film are iconic pieces that go great in that the context. And then, in reality, those accessories they wore and wear them ... Queen Elizabeth II. "
is working on new projects?

"In the film, yes. I am preparing the costumes for Rush , Ron Howard's new film about the life of Niki Lauda. "
Lives in Florence. But if you could choose?

"I would live in London. There lives the queen continues with the birth of the youth movements and the new culture europe most instances, in addition to being a city whose people live in different cultures. It seems to me the ideal city for someone like me who like the rules. I am fascinated by the rules, and also from their break. "

Michele Ciavarella - January 19, 2012

TAGS: Fashion Design, Polimoda in Florence, London's Fashion College, Fashion Institute of Technology, Elizabeth II, Rush, Ron Howard, Niki Lauda, ​​Maximilian Giornetti, Meryl Streep, Margaret Thatcher, MAXIMILIAN GIORNETTI Salvatore Ferragamo, Leiweb, Interview, Maximilian Giornetti, Creative Director of Ferragamo

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