The difficult discourse on masculinity?

Jil Sander A / W 2012-13

Raf Simons is driving Jil Sander since 2005, called to take the creative helm by Patrizio Bertelli, CEO of Prada, in that year still the trademark owner. Since then, his work for Jil Sander was almost perfect, fashion professionals are accustomed to seeing him as a guide for creative talent to the fashion of the twenty-first century. Well, to put it simply, has not missed a single collection .

For the collection Jil Sander for Men 'autumn-winter 2012-13 announced in a statement that his is "a reflection on contemporary masculinity, an exploration of some tension between control and relaxation. Large leather coats dominate the collection. Oversize and sometimes by a narrow belt, exemplify a sophisticated masculinity . " The task, therefore, is not easy to reflect on masculinity is an arduous task that hides many pitfalls. Often there is a risk of making mistakes and wrong can be any result that is achieved. Now, the job of a fashion designer is in itself difficult, collides with and against different aesthetic visions and also, unfortunately, with philosophical and historical meanings that go far beyond the simple, as beautiful dress.

The A / W collection for Jil Sander goes in this research using mostly skin and black with small flashes of color on sailor collars resting on jackets, on coats, sweaters and bearing on many applied colored dolphins, mermaids, anchors and dinosaurs are, says Simons, "a interpretation of symbols which show the childlike side of male psychology. " Told this way, the reflection is right and justified, even with cultural elements made anything but naive. It underscored by the music of the soundtrack of Shame , Steve McQueen's film , which reflects another aspect of manhood. Ma ..
But now I would like to speak directly to Raf Simons with a personal letter, unusual for a review tool .

Dear Raf Simons have always been an admirer of his passionate, our meetings have always produced good exchanges of views that have produced both pleasant thoughts about our work, its a fashion designer my critic.

I am writing this letter because his show for Jil Sander has aroused in me some concerns that span multiple images that evoked the work of fashion itself. Unfortunately, the images are important to human culture, what we see we always refer to other images we have stored in our memories and many pictures are substantial and not merely the vision.

To me it seemed that his reflection on masculinity has produced images that memory would not want to re-float. It seemed to me that masculinity that is seen on the runway was icy, unequivocal message of men aesthetically perfect but all the same to each other. A cloned aesthetic perfection, addressed to a single model of a man too perfect and perfection achieved with devices suitable for obtaining scientific and cultural superiority through the selection of the species.

The images conjured up terrible images that other Leni Riefenstal has handed in his films aesthetically impeccable yet dangerously cheering something that could not be approved. I'm sorry, dear Simons, having undergone these doubts, but I am confident in his knowledge of, and I find in her a party that will clarify my terrible doubts.

Sincerely

Michele Ciavarella - January 14, 2012

TAG: Raf Simons, Jil Sander, Jil Sander Man for autumn-winter 2012-13, Shame, Raf Simons

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